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Fifty degrees was the order of day when we left for Valdez; fresh with showers and a full tummy of Chris’ version of egg McMuffins. Occasionally blue sky popped through. First we saw the Worthington Glacier right off the road. Took a walk to it and took pictures. Very nice; they do loads of studies on the growth and recession of glaciers there.
The drive through the Thompson Pass and through the Keystone canyon (I think that was the name of it) was once again spectacular. I seem to use “spectacular” and “awesome” as adjectives a lot to describe the beautiful scenery…can’t seem to think of other words to describe the beautifulness of the surroundings. I’m trying to get across the fact that the mountains ad the rivers, falls, etc. are so unique; a view we in the Midwest don’t often have. Anyway, in the Keystone canyon, the Bridal Veil falls were really a sight to behold. Chris estimates that they might have been 500 feet high and it was right next to the road. Of course, pulled over and took a bunch of pictures. Too bad it was so overcast, because my pictures will not really show the true beauty. We could see the pipeline running along the road, but underground (there are yellow posts marking where it is underground).
Once we were through the canyon we passed “Old Valdez”, the sight of Valdez, until the Good Friday, 1964 earthquake. Totally annihilated the town. Then, once it was fattened, they decided to move town a couple of miles to the present site. There isn’t much to see in Valdez: lots of RV campgrounds, a few stores, a museum, a cannery, a gas station, a convention center, and a few other buildings; not much to see; one could walk through the entire town in an hour and hit every street while he’s doing it!
We then drove back up to Allison Point, which is on the way to the Valdez Marine Terminal, which is the end of the Alyesco Pipeline, where the oil is either loaded directly onto the super tankers or put in storage tanks. Unfortunately there were no tankers here for us to see. We have now been from the beginning of the pipeline to the end. How cool!
Our camp is right along the water. Chris went down the steep hill and navigated a few boulders so he could try his luck at salmon fishing. No success. There are loads of people here just going nuts with the fishing. Personally, I can’t see why all fuss.
Monday, July 21, 2008
It rained a bit last night; not much. Chris was up bright and early to try salmon fishing again. I stayed behind to perk the coffee. By the time I made our car-cups full of coffee and headed down the steep embankment, he had already caught one! Bingo! Two fish was the bag for the day. He cleaned them on the shore and threw the waste back into the water. The sea gulls were hovering waiting for their feast. Was fun to watch.
While we were standing at the back of our camper, looking out over this. In Valdez inlet/harbor off of Prince William Sound, we saw loads of sea gulls, sea lions with gulls pestering them for their fish, sea otters, eagles and salmon jumping out of the water. All the bears that our neighbor campers in Copper River told us were here never materialized! We were here….that’s why the bear didn’t come.
Today we’re heading back up toward the Chitina River area to the McCarthy
Road.
Later: we traveled 33 miles down the Edgerton Hwy. to Chitina (pronounced Chit’-na) at the entrance to the Wrangell St. Elias National Park (the largest of all of the national parks). The town grew with the Kennecott Copper Mine 66 miles away, where the highest grade of copper was mined for abt. 40 years and was transported on the railroad to Chitina. This National Park is the largest in North America; 6 times the size of Yellowstone; has 9 of the 16 highest peaks in North America; has glaciers that equal the size of Connecticut. Due to all the recent rains, we were told that the road past Chitina to the Kennecott Copper Mine was not in the best of condition and even had stray railroad spikes work their way to the top of the road bed (which had been the rail road bed). So, we walked around the little town of Chitina and took some cool pictures. On the drive back out to the Richardson Hwy (goes from Valdez to Fairbanks) we stopped at 3 Mile Lake on the road and camped for the night. Beautiful setting. Chris tried fishing a little while for stocked trout.
July 22, 2008
It rained all night; we were up and out of there by 8 am; it was 45 degrees. Heading toward Tok (the gateway to Alaska because to go in or out of Alaska by road, you HAVE TO go through Tok), we again decided against going to Chicken, Eagle and the Top of the World road to Dawson City because of the rain and bad roads. Later today some folks came from there in a little car and said it was dicey. Good decision. On the “Tok Cutoff” road we almost got wiped out by a cow moose charging across the road! Sadly, the beautiful view of the Wrangell Mountains and the 16,000 ft. peaks was dampened by the rain and clouds and I couldn’t take pictures. It is supposed to be in the 70 degrees here now…and we’ve been in the 40-50’s.
Revisiting a favorite campground on Deadman’s Lake about 20 miles from the Canadian border, we were lucky enough to get our same spot right on the lake. Chris tried fishing for a bit. Beautiful evening….and some blue sky.
July 23, 2008 Deadman’s Lake, AK; through Canada, to Haines, Alaska
Today was definitely a two-country tour to get to Haines. The only land route to Haines, Alaska, is OUT of Alaska through Tok, Alaska, through Yukon and British Columbia and THEN back into Alaska at ”Daltons Cache” port of entry. Took us 2 minutes at customs; not even out of the car. He liked Tommy, too. We were up and early on the road because we were going to travel half of our trip today over country we had already seen coming on the Alaska Highway. But, once again, everything looked new going from the other way! It has been rainy and cool, and I bemoan the thought of all the beautiful, stupendous, and awe inspiring photographs I have missed because of the rain….moan…but the mountains are still beautiful in their majesty. We drove all day with mountains on both sides of us. The road to Haines is a “scenic byway” in Alaska, and for good reason.
Today we had a cow moose dart across the road in front of us; that could be why the semi’s have the most huge “cow catchers” or grill guards on their rigs that you have ever seen. We also saw a black bear along the side of the road. One thing Chris noticed was the absence of wild flowers in the part of Canada we transversed today. I had been enjoying the wildflowers in Alaska immensely.
Once in Haines, we got our information for taking the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry to Skagway, and then booked a day ferry for Saturday to Juneau. It’s the capitol of Alaska, and yet not able to reach it overland; only by air or sea. And I’m certainly not going by sea.
I walked around a few shops, then we decided to go find a campground for the evening; it had been a long day. We went about 10 mi. out of Haines to the Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area campground. It is so nice to be in big tall trees, conifers, but not the stubby, skinny black pine that the mail part of Alaska has so much of. These are sturdy, big trees. Love ‘em.
Chris plans on going salmon fishing tomorrow morning. Tonight we ate the last of the salmon that he caught in Valdez. Chris fried it; yes, artery clogging fried. Love it that way.
July 24; Haines
We have been doing a bit of sight seeing and tonight we are taking the Ferry to Scagway. That's the only way to get there; it's about an hour by Ferry across the Lynn Canal; but if we drove it, it would be about 300 miles! That's a no-brainer. Tomorrow we see Skagway, then on Saturday we take a fast ferry for a day trip to Juneau...the capitol of Alaska that is not accessable by land; only air and water. Strange, but this is a strange, beautiful, different world here....and it's still raining.... :-)
So, until we "connect" again...
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