Tommy enjoyed a nice long drink from the cold water. She is the best travel dog. Just today she leaned her head down over the back of Chris' seat....she needed some lap time. She usually chills very nicely on her bed behind his seat. She sleeps or just watches the world go by.
tThis is really cool. On the way up to Deadhorse & Prudhoe Bay, shortly after we left that wonderful camp near the gold-rush era town of Wiseman, we noted this gate to close the highway for air traffic! WHoooooooooooh! Where are the planes?????
uThis is the bridge over the Yukon River.... where we got our flat tire on the way up. It is a formidable bridge in itself. It has wood decking and is about 1/3 of a mi. long and is uphill. The pipeline runs right along side of it. The Yukon River is still and has been for centuries, a main trafic method in this back country. I bought some ear rings from a lady who travels this river every day in her motor boat to sell her wares at Yukon Crossing.
Cleaning the Dalton Dirt from our camper and truck. Took over $20 to get the grime off....at $1 per minute at the car wash.
The engineering feat of building that road ranks right next to the feat of building the pipe line. The toughness of all the people who work in Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay and the other oil fields is admirable. The entire place looks like a rugged outpost in Antartica, minus the snow.
Here’s some notes I wrote about Deadhorse and the oil fields after we left:
Deadhorse has Lake Colleen, a freshwater lake, which is part of its fresh water system. The oild fields are very spread out (for miles). To move drilling rigs from one area to the next, they wait until winter and move them on “ice roads” which they make.
The least paid person makes about $50,000 per year. In the summer they hire college kids (7-8,00) “stick pickers” whose job it is to walk around and clean up the tundra of trash that may have blown out there. (great job, huh?) The are has its own refinery to make diesel fuel. The tour guide said that they make the diesel from natural gas and the oil that comes out of the ground. (this was news to us) That is the largest natural gas facility in the world. That must be why ALL of the vehicles up there are diesel motors, even the power generator for Deadhorse. And they have these huge “bull rails” in front of all the buildings, which has electric cords running across the top of them: this is for all the trucks and vehicles to plug in when it’s cold. These “bull rails” really reminded me hitching posts in the wild west.
In Prudhoe Bay they have a power that runs on their own natural gas; that supplies all of the oil field’s power.
During our entire trip thus far, in spite of “watch for caribou” warnings, telling us that in our “Milepost” guide, etc., we saw only one lonely caribou grazing in the oil fields….he must have been lost. We had been told that the caribou were there…but were spread out in small groups; and were never where we were. Bummer!
We left Deadhorse about 3 p.m., headed south into the wide expanse of tundra, and saw the heard of muskox once again in the distance. The view returning down the Dalton was all new; everything was in reverse; views that I had not seen on the way up! The Atigun Pass awed me as much as the first time over it (in the Brooks Range); very rugged, snow streaked, and barren.
We drove a bit further than planned because we wanted to get to Wiseman and stay in one of their B & B’s. I was a bit disappointed with them; they didn’t seem very rugged…just beds in a room….not much on ambiance or gold-rush era style. So, we drove on 13 miles to Coldfoot. Got there about 7:30 pm and had the dinner buffet in their restaurant. (reminder: this place used to be a construction camp modular buildings, as is their “inn”…pretty much the same conditions that the crews lived in along the highway when it was being built in the 70’s)
The food was good; had to be to keep the truckers happy. We enjoyed chatting with a couple from Pennsylvania on a tour.
We camped in their RV area….nothing more than a fairly grassy, weedy area that was not the dust of the huge parking lot.
Friday, June 27
We woke to a delightful 70 degrees with a bit o a breeze. Our entire trip down the hwy. had a very nice breeze, so the mosquitoes have not been a challenge. We treated ourselves once again to the breakfast buffet and visited with a young couple from California who had ridden all the way up on a Kowasaki and were, likewise, returning from Deadhorse. They were lots of fun to visit with and hear about their exploits. Now, riding motor bikes on this rode is a true adventure…even more than our trip. (those who pedal bikes are just crazy!)
We reflected that on the way up the highway, we had lost lots of the campers in Coldfoot; there were not that many once we got up to Deadhorse. We conjectured that some folks may travel as far as Coldfoot, or the Arctic Circle, and then return to Fairbanks. As matter of fact, I did read that there are tours like that.
Before we left Coldfoot, Chris patched our broken wind shield, got gas and we were off about 10 am. We again stopped for the sights at beautiful Grayling Lake. We tfinished the Dalton Hwy, almost exactly 5 days from getting on it. At that point we were about 80 mi. north of Fairbanks.
That brought us back to the big city to clean the muck & layers of dirt from the camper, and to do the loads of laundry. This laundry was strange for me, because they had 5 shower rooms also. (They only cost $4.50, as opposed to the $12 in Deadhorse…depends on how bad you want the shower!) I mentioned this to the attendant. She pointed out to me that many of the people don’t have running water in their homes, because they are built on perma frost; can’t put septic systems in perma frost, nor can you run water pipes. So these hardy people truck drinking water to their homes, as well as have priveys. The haul water just like we would haul fire wood. There are LOADS of these people, but they are largely outside of the city limits. So, that’ the long reason why there are showers at the Laundromat! Chris enjoyed one of these $4.50 showers!
Then we camped at Pioneer Park parking lot…..along with about 20 other motor homes, etc. Today we are headed for Chena Hot Springs….should feel good, in spite of the all night rain we’ve had….the first in a long time. It's been raining all night and morning.....the hot springs will be just fine!
So….until we “connect” again…